Tripoli, or trablous in Arabic, is the second-largest city in Lebanon, and has a long and distinguished history. Many of its souks, mosque and other monuments are medieval, including the huge Crusader castle which dominates the city. Many of the monuments are now being restored after years of neglect and war damage

Tripoli has two main parts: the port area of AL-Mina , and the Old City on the landside Both are well worth visiting. The port area offers the opportunity for boat rides and swimming, and the souk areas of the Old City are unspoilt and fascinating. Despite the obvious attractions of Tripoli, it is still over-looked by most tourism programmes, which may be a good or a bad thing depending which way you look at it.
Tripoli is also famous as the sweets capital of Lebanon, and any trip to the city is not complete without a visit to one of its Arabic sweet shops. The main specialty is halawet el-jibn, a delicious sweet made from cheese and served with syrup.
History
Although much of its early history is lost to us, Tripoli is thought to be Kadytis of Phoenician times. The original city, founded probably around 800BC, was situated in the area now called Al-Mina, but virtually nothing remains of it. The Greeks named the city, Tripoli, as it was divided into three walled quarters, each being the federal seat of Phoenicia’s other city-states: Byblos, Sidon and Aradus. Prior to this federtion, the town was only a small trading port.
During the rule of the Seleucids and, later, the Romans, Tripoli was embellished with many sumptuous temples and other buildings. A huge earthquake in 543AD changed the geography of the port area completely and destroyed most of the town. It was quickly rebuilt, but, by 635AD, a general of Mu’awiyah, the governor of Syria who founded the Umayyad dynasty (661-750 AD), besieged the city. He attempted to starve the town into submission, but the inhabitants of Tripoli escaped by sea with the help of the Byzantine emperor. When the general entered the town, he found it deserted. To repopulate the town, he brought in a military garrison and a Jewish colony. The garrison was often away and a Byzantine notable took advantage of the situation to seize the town. It was then in Christian hands, until it was recaptured by the Umayyads and then by the Abbasid caliphs. Tripoli remained under Abbasid control until the middle of the 11 the century and the coming of the Crusaders.
The Crusader took the town in 1109 after a long and difficult siege, during which a magnificent Arabic library of 100,000 volumes was destroyed by fire. Raymond de Saint-Gilles began the siege which was completed after his death by his French cousin, Guillaume Jourdain. The final victory was brought about with the help of a Genoese squadron. Italian influences can still be seen in Tripoli.
The Crusaders managed to hang on to Tripoli for 180 years, during which time the castle of Raymond de Saint-Gilles was built and a prosperous economy, based on weaving, was established.
The Mameluke sultan Qala’un took the city of Tripoli in 1289 and made territorial concessions to the Muslims who built a town at the foot of the castle mount and on the banks of the river. This is the present-day Old City. The Muslims also built a series of defensive towers at Al-Mina. The Turkish Ottomans took over the town in 1516 under the ruling sultan Selim I.
The ‘old’ part of Tripoli today is about 3km inland from the port and is mostly medieval in design, with modern areas spreading out from the old center. During the last few decades, the orange orchards between the Old City and port area have gradually been developed as residential districts and nowadays the city is one homogeneous whole.
Since independence in 1946 Tripoli has become the administrative capital of northern Lebanon. It was the center of an insurrection in 1958 where rebels defended themselves for several weeks against the forces of the central government within the labyrinth of the Old City.
Tripoli suffered some damage during the civil war but not nearly as much as the south of the country. Today it is concentrating on rebuilding its industry and business sectors; there is a large trade pavilion which hosts an annual business fair. It is also looking to tourism as a source of future income.
Orientation
There are tow main parts to Tripoli: the city proper and Al-Mina. The main part of Tripoli is set slightly inland from the sea. The dominant feature of the city is the Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles, set on a hill overlooking the Old City and the Kadisha River (also called the Nahr Abu Ali). A maze of souks cluster at the foot of the hill, and further afield are the modern shopping and residential districts. The center is at Sahet et-tall ( pronounced et-tahl), a large square by the clock tower and municipality building where you’ll find the service taxi and bus stands, cheap eateries and hotels. The Old City sprawls east of Sahet et-Tall, while the modern center is west of the square.
Three main avenues lead to Al-Mina, 3km to the west. This is a promontory which has the port area and fishing harbors. There are beaches around Al-Mina and some nearby islands which can be reached by boat from the northern shore of the promontory. Al-Mina is a separate little town and has some hotels and restaurants.
Information
Tourist Office the Tripoli tourism office (TL (06) 433590) is right on the first major roundabout as you enter Tripoli from the south. The roundabout has a large ‘Allah’ sign in Arabic in the middle and the office is on the right as you face north. It has a few brochures and a map of the city which lists the various monuments. The staff can advise you about visiting the Palm Islands conservation area, for which you need a permit.
Money Most of the banks are on the main road which runs north to south through Tripoli, Rue Fouad Chehab. There are also some moneychangers on Rue Tall, which is where you will be dropped off if you are coming by service taxi or bus. Many of the moneychangers are open in the evening.
Post & Communications there are two post offices in Tripoli. The main one is on Rue Fouad Chehab near the Bank of Lebanon building, just south of the ‘Allah’ roundabout, and the other is in Al-Mina on Rue ibn Sina. There are also public telephone offices at these places.
The telephone code for Tripoli is 06.
Emergency the following Tripoli telephone numbers may be useful in the event of an emergency:
Police 430754, 614011
Ambulance 610861
Red Cross 602510

Old City
The Old City mostly dates from the Mameluke era (14th and 15th centuries) and is a maze of narrow alleyways, colourful souks, hammams, khans, mosques and theological schools (madrassah). As some parts were damaged during the war, there is a lot of renovation work being carried out. It is a very lively place where artisans, including jewelers, tailors and coppersmiths, continue to work as they have done for centuries.
The monuments of Tripoli, of which there are 30 altogether, are numbered with small plaques. Most are within the Old City and also within easy walking distance of each other.
The Grand Mosque was converted from an earlier cathedral, probably St Mary of the Tower. The present-day minaret (tower) still looks rather like a bell tower of the Lombard style. Parts of the baptistery have been reused in the adjacent Al-Qartawiya Madrassah (1316-1326). This madrassah has a lovely façade of black-and-white facings and a honeycomb pattern above the portal. The Al-Burtasiya Mosque and Madrassah (1310), near the Kadisha River, is also worth a visit to see the intricately decorated and inlaid mihrab (prayer niche).
One of the most outstanding exmples of Islamic architecture is the Taynal Mosque (1336) with its magnificent inner portal. It still has a partially preserved Carmelite nave, although the rest of the building is typical of 14th- century Arab architecture. This building has been recently restored.
As well as the religious buildings there are a couple of ancient hammams. The Hammam en-Nouri (1333) and the Hammam al-Jadid are both in the old city. The former is a palatial ruin of a bathhouse with numerous cupolas studded with glass which cast shafts of light down into the rooms. In the main room is a marble pool with an intriguing optical illusion as you walk around it. The latter is called the ‘new bath’ as it was built much later in 1740. It was a gift to the city by Asaad Pasha al-Azem of Damascus. The portal of the Hammam al-Jadid has a 14-link chain draped over it which is carved from a single block of stone. These two old hammams are not in use. If you want a steam bath and massage, go to Hammam al-Abd just off the gold souk (Rue Bijouterie). It is only open to men – if you are female, you have to hire the whole building! A two-hour Turkish bath and massage costs LL 14,000. In the Old City there’s also the 500-year-old Nuzha Hammam which is again only open to men.
Other commercial buildings are the khans, or caravanserais, where merchants brought their goods for sale and storage. Several of these are still in use as workshops and storage areas. The khan al-khayyatin is in the process of restoration. Tailors have worked here and in the nearby Souk al-Haraj since the 14th century. Another khan, the 14th-century khan al-Misriyyin, was used by the Egyptian traders in Tripoli. The whole of the Old City has the authentic air of a medieval town and is certainly not touristy. See also the Architecture of Lebanon section in the Facts about Lebanon chapter.
Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles
The city is dominated by the vast citadel, known as Qalaat Sanjil in Arabic. In 1100 Raymond de Saint-Gilles of Toulouse occupied the hill which overlooks the valley, the town and the coast. He decided to transform this position, which he called Mont Pleerin (Mount Pilgrim), into a fortress. The original castle was burnt down in 1287 and then on several subsequent occasions. It was rebuilt by Emir Esssendemir Kurgi in 1307-8, and it has been added to piecemeal over the centuries. As a result, the only really early parts are the foundation stones; some of the wings of the citadel were built as late as the 16th century. Even so, it is an impressive building which charts the stormy history of the city.
Engraved above the Frankish gateway is an edict of the Mameluke Sultan Sha’aban about the military budget. Over the first doorway of the castle is another engraving, this time from Suleyman the Magnificent, who ordered the restoration (yet again) of ‘this blessed tower, that it may serve as a fortified position until the end of time’.
The castle is open daily. The entrance is up a steep road on the western approach to the castle mount. There is not always someone to collect the entrance fee, but the official charge for entry is LL 5000. Students can enter for LL 2500. A word of warning when exploring the castle: there are some sheer drops which are not protected by barriers or warnings, so take care.
When you have explored the castle, walk down to the bridge and cross the river. The view from the east bank is the best one of the castle with its sheer walls and picturesque Arab building nestling at the foot of the mount.
Al- Mina
Al-Mina is situated on a headland and three main avenues run from the old part of Tripoli down to the port. Until a few decades ago the avenues ran between orange groves, but these have now been built over, mostly with unexciting residential developments and modern shops. There are a few hotels and restaurants overlooking the fishing port and it is a relaxing place to hang out, eat fish and perhaps take a boat trip to the nearby islands.
Start at the northern coast of the headland; there is little of interest on the southern part which is mostly apartment buildings and also houses the trade fair pavilion. The only monument of real interest is the Lion Tower, so-called because of the bas-relief decorations on the façade. The tower, which is called Bourj es-Sba in Arabic, is a miniature fortress dating from the end of the 15th century and probably built by the Sultan Qait Bey to protect the coastline against attack from the Turks. It is an exceptional example of Muslim military architecture with a striking black and with striped portico. The whole of the ground floor is one vast chamber which used to be decorated with paintings and armorial carvings, traces of which you can still see. The upper floor has eight rooms opening onto a central hall. At the top there is a terrace which has views over the city and the harbour area.
The Lion Tower is at the eastern end of the harbour, separated from Al-Mina proper by the old railway sidings. The railway and old station are now disused and dilapidated, the rusting tracks are overgrown, and the old steam locomotives are still there, rusting away as well. Railway buffs should not miss a rather poignant wander among the old locomotives. In the middle of the desolation is a café right next to the station. There is a second tower, Bourj Ras al-Nahr, about 1km to the east by the mouth of the Kadisha River. However, it is very ruined, with only the ground floor surviving.
Along the sea front of Al-Mina there are many boats plying for hire to take people to the nearby islands. A return trip takes about two hours (with time for a swim) and is a relaxing change from rambling around ruins. The fare for a return trip is LL 5000 or, if there is a group, you can hier the entire boat (10 to 12 persons) for LL 50,000 and make an expendition of it.
If you want to visit the Palm Islands Park, which consists of the three far islands of Palm Island, Sanani Island and Ramkine Island, you need a permit. This area has been recently protected as a wildlife sanctuary. Permits are available to bona fide bird-watchers, photographers etc, and can be obtained from the Ministry of Tourism offices in Beirut or Tripoli. Obviously you will have to negotiate with one of the boat owners to take you there and back and it will be more expensive than a trip to the closer island. (Also see the Nature Reserves section in the Facts about Lebanon chapter.)
Places to Stay – bottom end
Compared to other parts of Lebanon, Tripoli has quite a few cheap hotels. There are a few along Rue Tall. The rather basic, family-run Hotel les Cedres has rooms with shared bath from US$ 6 to US$ 7 per person.
In a beautiful old building with high ceilings and stained glass windows is the Palace Hotel (TL (06) 432257). It charges US$ 10 per person for doubles with shared bath and US$ 25/30 in doubles/triples with private bathroom and air-con.
Best of the lot is the Hotel Koura (TL (06) 628407), also known as the Hotel Tall. It is a very nice, converted old house off Rue Tall, near the Palace Hotel. The road is called rue Izz ed-Din-look for a sign on the corner for Chaptini Travel. It is run by a couple who speak French, but not English. Singles/doubles cost US$ 10/20. A double room with bath and air-con costs US$ 30; without air-con US$ 25.
The Hotel Hayek (TL (06) 601311) in Al-Mina has 12 rooms with sea views at US$ 18/25 for doubles/triples with shared bath and complimentary tea and coffee. It’s a pink building on Rue ibn Sina (opposite the post office), and there’s a supermarket Hayek on the ground floor. The hotel entrande is round the back; if the door is shut, ask at the supermarket.
Places to Stay-middle
There are a few mid-range hotels in Al-Mina. The best is the Hotel el-sultan (TL (06) 601627,611640). It is right on the corniche, on the corner of Rue ibn Sina and Rue al-Meshti. All the rooms have a TV, minibar and air-con. Singles/doubles cost US$ 36/46 including brakfast. There is also a restsursnt on the l st floor where lunch or dinner costs around US$ 10 to US$ 15.
Places to Stay-top end
There is one really extraordinary place to stay in Tripoli and that is chateau des Oliviers, also known as villa Nadia (TL (06) 423513, 629271;fax 610222, 615024). This is really a private mansion converted into a hotel by the owner Nadia Dibo. It is set a few kilometers south of the city in the Haykalieh region high on a hill and has a ‘country house’ feel to it. Madame Nadia built the chateau to house her wonderful collection of oriental antiques and the ground floor rooms all have a theme: French, Chinese, Spanish and oriental. It is like stepping into the Arabian Nights. The chateau has a garden and a swimming pool and there is even a small nightclub. The chateau has only 22 rooms and 6 suites, so it’s advisable to book in advance. A night of luxury will cost you between US$ 90 and US$ 300, but discounts are available so it’s always worth asking. Fixed-price lunch or dinner is available from US$ 20.
Places to Eat
On and around Rue tall there are several simple restaurants serving shawarma sandwiches for LL 1500 and falafels for only LL 750. You can also get a plate of fuul or hummus for LL 1500. Just along from the clock tower is the Café Brazil serving light snacks, and further along on the other side of the road is the famous sweet shop Raf’at Hallab Fils, which should be visited for its local specialities. It is reputed to be the best patisserie in Lebanon. There is another RaF’at Hallab Fils on Rue Remayzat.
In Al-Mina there is a good restaurant called Siesta, which serves everything from light snacks to full meals. It is right on the corniche opposite the fishing harbour. You can get a pizza or burger and fries for about LL 6000 as well as ice creams and shakes for about LL 4000. A little further north along the corniche is the Captain’s Fish restaurant (TL (06) 613013), where a three-course lunch or dinner costs US$ 15 plus drinks. It is open daily until 10 pm. Next door is an ice-cream parlour which sells all sorts of goodies. A fresh fruit sundae will cost about LL 5000.
If you feel like a full Lebanese meal, try the restaurant in the Hotel el-Sultan. It has a good selection of mezze for LL 2000 to LL 2500 each, and a steak will around LL 10,000.
Things to Buy
Exploring the old souks is the best way to shop in Tripoli. If you are looking for jewellery, there is a whole souk devoted to gold. If you are looking for a more modest souvenir, then head for the brass souk. You can pick up a really well-made piece for much less than in Beirut and the choice is enormous. Even if you don’t want to buy, it is well worth a visit just to see the metal workers making pieces by hand in the same way that they have done for centuries.
Getting there & Away
Bus & Service Taxi the service taxi stand is on Rue Tall by the clock tower and public gardens. Service taxis from Beirut charge LL 5000. Tripoli is a good place from which to visit Bcharre, the Cedars and the Kadisha Valley. Service taxis to Bcharre charge LL 6000 and to the Cedars LL 10,000. There is also a bus several times a day between Tripoli and Beirut. The fare is LL 2000.
From Tripoli you can also get service taxis to Syria. They leave when full from the Rue Tall stand. They charge LL 8000 to Homs and the same to Lattakia in northern Syria.
Getting Around
Taxi Local taxis can be flagged on the street and charge LL 500 for a short hop within the city (LL 1000 to Al-Mina).